When shopping in a store, you can hold a shoe, turn it over, pull at the laces and feel the material. But while shopping online, to really get an idea of each aspect of a shoe, knowledge of the shoe language is your key to knowing just what you’ll be receiving in that divine box that shows up on your door step. You may be surprised at how many phrases and words there are for every little part of a shoe, but consider this your shoe crash course— Shoes 101. We’ve provided a comprehensive list of vocabulary to help you know just what you’ll be slipping your foot into. But unlike those high school language courses, you don’t have to memorize these phrases. This list is right here, whenever you need it, so you can be a shoe shopping expert.
- The Low Down on High Heels
- Pieces of the Podiatry Puzzle
- Anatomy of the Shoe
- A Different Style for Every Mile
- Decorative Details and Aiding Additions
- Basics of Boots
- Shoes With A Purpose
- Foreign Footwear
- International Sizing Chart
The Low Down on High Heels
Heel— a heel not only refers to an elevated sole of a shoe, but can be the cushioned bottom of the back of the foot, or the solid part of the shoe that supports the girth.
Heel Height— on a shoe, this is measured from the bottom surface of the sole, directly under where your foot rests, to the very bottom of the heel where the shoe meets the ground.
Heel Seat— the solid part of the shoe right between where the bottom of the heel of your foot rests and the top of the she heel begins.
Lift— when you look at a heel of a shoe, you can normally see lines in the material, and these are the separations between each layer of that material which are actually stacked to create the heel. One individual layer of this material is called a lift.
Pitch— if you were to remove a heel from a shoe, you would find that the top curves upward to sort of cup the sole of the shoe. The back of the heel, towards the top, has a slightly steeper angle to stabilize the shoe. This angle is called the pitch.
Platform Shoe— a shoe that is not only elevated at the back by a heel, but also at the front of the shoe. The heel is generally even taller to balance the shoe. Originally used in the Greek Theatre to raise the height of actors, now they’ll raise you to get a better view at a concert.
Quarter— the back part of a shoe that holds the heel and sides of the foot behind the arch. The quarter is usually connected at the back and middle of the heel by a seam.
Stacked Heel— while most heels are comprised of the layering of pieces of wood, a Stacked Heel will have each layer be a different color to emphasize the separation of each layer.
Wedge Heel— think the opposite of a stiletto. Most shoes ranges from the thinnest stilettos to thick, chunky heels up to 2 inches in girth and break off from the rest of the shoe at the bottom. A wedge, however, has a heel that connects from the back of the shoe to the front, following the entire bottom contour of the shoe. A wedge fills in the space between a conventional heel and the front of the shoe with material.
Pieces of the Podiatry Puzzle
Arch— this term can either apply to an area of the foot itself, or to a shoe. On a foot, the arch is the high curve between the ball and the heel. On a shoe, the arch refers to the area of the insole of the shoe that is raised through a curve in the structure, or simply padded to give support to the arch of the foot.
Ball— The slightly cushioned area of the foot beginning at the tip of the big toe and encompassing all the area up to where the foot begins to arch and thin out. Ballerinas achieve their elongated posture by standing on the ball of the foot.
Forefoot— the small arch that your toes create between the padded ball of the foot and the tip of the toes.
Heel— a heel not only refers to an elevated sole of a shoe, but can be the cushioned bottom of the back of the foot, or the solid part of the shoe that supports the girth.
Instep— this is the highest point on the upper part of your foot. This is the top of the convex arch the top of your foot makes, and right before the foot becomes the ankle.
Anatomy of the Shoe
Arch— this term can either apply to an area of the foot itself, or to a shoe. On a foot, the arch is the high curve between the ball and the heel. On a shoe, the arch refers to the area of the insole of the shoe that is raised through a curve in the structure, or simply padded to give support to the arch of the foot.
Back Seam— the vertical seam at the very center of the back of a shoe, raising from the bottom of the sole to the height of the back of the shoe.
Collar— the collar of the shoe is the strip of material at the top line and opening of a shoe. This strip can be thin or wide, and sometimes padded for comfort like the top inner area of some rain boots or hiking boots.
Eyelet— one of the first shoe features you encountered as a kid while learning to tie your shoes, the eyelet is the whole through which a lace is threaded. Some eyelets are reinforced and circled by a metal ring, a grommet or even plastic structures of various shapes.
Footbed— this can also be called the insole and is the lining of the entire length of the inside of a shoe and is the area that the bottom of your foot lands on.
Girth— the Girth of a shoe is the measurement around the ball of a foot. This measurement is important in how tight a shoe holds the back part of your foot.
Inseam— less than 1% of shoes on the market are welted (stitched) together, but those that are have a hidden seam that holds together the upper part of the shoe, the lining, the sole & the welt (the center of the side that covers the arch).
Lining— this is what your foot is actually surrounded by and touches once inside the shoe. The lining is the material that comprises the whole interior of the shoe.
Mid-Sole— just what it sounds like, the mid-sole is the material between the outer sole (which contacts the ground) and the inner sole (which contacts the heel of your foot). The Mid-sole is there to provide extra bounce and cushioning so a shoe with a good mid-sole is less likely to tire out your feet.
Quarter— the back part of a shoe that holds the heel and sides of the foot behind the arch. The quarter is usually connected at the back and middle of the heel by a seam.
Quarter Lining— typically made from leather, this is the lining of the quarter and the material that your entire heel touches. The Quarter Lining may be a different and often stronger material than the rest of the interior lining to withstand the pressure of your foot’s heel.
Rim— another name for the collar of the shoe and refers to the entrance to the shoe, where you slip your foot in. Whether it is a low cut sandal or a knee high boot, the Rim is wherever your foot enters the shoe.
Sole Leather— the leather at the sole of the shoe. Usually thick and heavy to minimize the shock of each step to the foot.
Throat— while the collar of the shoe is the surrounding material at the entrance to the show, it is only appropriate that the round opening in the center of the rim is the Throat.
Tongue— this is an additional piece of leather or other material attached at the center of the shoe, under the vamp and leading up to the top of the shoe. Laces tie over the tongue of a shoe.
Upper— this is simply all of the shoe except the bottom that your foot lands on. Any part of the shoe that is not part of the sole is considered part of the upper.
Vamp— the front part of the upper shoe that covers the toes and part of the foot. For stylistic purposes the vamp will sometimes be different color or material from the rest of the shoe.
Width— the width of a shoe is a measurement taken from the ball of the Last of that shoe. Widths are titled with letters like AAA, AA, A, B, C and each letter represents an added one-sixths of an inch.
A Different Style for Every Mile
Ankle Strap— An Ankle Strap shoe has at least one strap that wraps around the ankle to either hold the foot securely to the shoe, or for decorative purposes. There can be either a single or multiple straps, and they may buckle, tie, snap or close any way. So long as there is a strap around the ankle, this is an Ankle Strap shoe.
Ballerina Flat— this is a flat heeled shoe that slips on and usually has a bow tip. Designed after the ballet shoe, this shoe has a sole made of a slightly more supportive material such as rubber for casual, everyday wear or even dress wear.
Blucher— a shoe featuring two flaps of material that are joined by laces over the tongue of the shoe.
Bootie— not quite a boot, but affectionately named as its smaller sibling, the bootie rises to just below the ankle bone.
Brogue— an Oxford Style shoe featuring pinking (a saw-toothed shape edging where the toes begin) and perforating (tiny cut out holes for decoration and ventilation). This was originally a rather heavy shoe built for men but has been re-designed and incorporated into lighter, narrower styles for women.
D'Orsay— a style featured in many of Carrie Bradshaw’s cherished Manolo Blahniks, D’Orsay shoes have either one or both sides of the shoe cut out, revealing the top, center area of the foot’s arch.
Ghillie— A style of shoe in which laces thread through loops attached to and extending from the main flap of material, rather than running through eyeholes built into the shoe. A ballet shoe is a good example of a Ghillie.
Jelly Shoes— Jelly shoes are made entirely of a substance called PVC, which is often used as a building material for it’s durability but with added plasticizers becomes softer and flexible. Jelly shoes are waterproof and usually somewhat transparent.
Loafer— any shoe with a thick, relatively short heel (so stilettos don’t count!) that slips on and is entirely absent of laces, Velcro, or any fastening device is a loafer.
Mary Jane— In an attempt to get home, Dorothy taps a pair of sparkly Mary Janes. This is a closed toed and round toed shoe with a strap across the instep. The strap can snap on, buckle, or simply be an elastic strap making the shoe easy to slip on. Mary Janes typically have chunky heels.
Moccasin— this type of shoe is created by putting a single piece of leather or suede around a last and shaping the bottom of the show. The vamp (upper, front part that covers your toes) is usually stitched in with suede or leather laces in thick, visible stitches.
Mule— like a clog, a Mule is also open in the back and closed toed. However, the front of a Mule is slightly more narrow and pointed at the front. A Mule can have a stiletto heel, a chunky heel, or no heel at all.
Penny Loafer— like the original loafer, this shoe slips on without any fastening devices. However, instead of a kiltie, button or other embellishment over the instep, there is a small slit. The shoe gets its name because this slit was created to slip a penny into for good luck.
Pump— a pump is a shoe with a low cut front— no platform— and a relatively low heel. Pumps are often found in the workplace and can be easily slipped on.
Saddle Shoe— not just for the Wild West. A saddle shoe has a piece of material that is often leather and contrasting in color to the rest of the shoe, shaped like a saddle and right over the vamp (top center) of the shoe. The shoe gets its name from the location of the piece of leather--“saddle” sits on the shoe in the same location that an equestrian saddle would sit on a horse.
Sandal— essentially, if there is minimal amount of material securing the foot to the bottom of the shoe, this is a sandal. A sandal usually has a strip or multiple strips holding the foot to the shoe.
Slide— just what it sounds like, a slide shoe is one with an open back and open toe that you can easily slide your foot into. One band of material lays over the top of the foot and holds it to the shoe.
Sling-Back— as opposed to an ankle strap that wraps all around the back and front of the ankle, the Sling Back shoe holds the foot in place with a strap that only encompasses the back of the ankle. This strap is usually elastic (hence the Sling) or can be buckled.
Slipper— meant for indoor use, most slippers are made of soft, warm and highly flexible material. Most slippers do not have the water proof bottom that outdoor shoes have. A slipper is usually flat and can be slipped on without an securing devices.
Sneakers— while they get their name from the wearers ability to step in these shoes without making a sound, sneakers are usually worn in loud arenas like soccer fields, basketball courts, and tennis courts. Most athletic shoes are considered a sneaker. The body of a sneaker is usually made from canvas as the sole is rubber, often with Sipes to prevent slipping on a muddy field or rocky court.
Spectator Shoe— with such an intricate design, this shoe will attract spectators. The upper body of the shoe and the outer design that is seen is characterized by two colors, often of different materials. The brighter or more prominent color (for example white would be dominant on a white and black shoe) is accented by pinking on the edge. The toe is usually the same material and color as the saddle of the shoe and is perforated.
Straight Laced— this doesn’t just refer to your friend who never parties. A straight laced shoe is shaped with a very straight last to prevent pronation or curving of the foot to the right or the left.
Thong— a type of sandal that features only one strap. There is a V-shaped strap that connects to the base of the shoe between the big toe and the second toe.
Unit bottom— as the name implies, a shoe with a unit bottom has a single, shoe bottom in which the sole, the heel and the entire bottom part of the shoe are one piece or unit of rubber or plastic.
Vegetarian Shoes— shoes made of any non-leather materials, including synthetic and manmade materials.
Decorative Details and Aiding Additions
Antiquing— a leather finishing not as shiny as patent leather, but with a slightly buffed look giving the shoe a worn appearance.
Bellows Tongue— often found in athletic shoes, a Bellows Tongue is a shoe tongue that is not only attached to the top of the shoe, but also to the sides for a stronger hold on the foot.
Cap Toe— an additional piece of leather added to the toe of a shoe. Separated from the rest of the shoe by the seam, the cap toe is normally contrasting in color and or design to the rest of the shoe and gives the toe area a slightly elevated appearance.
Cemented Construction— on a shoe with cemented construction, the sole and the upper part of the shoe are cemented rather than stitched together to give a shoe more flexibility. A cemented shoe moves with your foot easier as it is one whole entity, rather than two parts bound together.
Contoured Footbed— just like the ever popular orthopedic mattress does to your whole body, the contoured foot bed molds to the natural shape and movement of your whole foot. A contoured foot bed can already be built into the shoe, or separate foot beds can be added to the insole of the shoe.
Counter— a stiff piece of material placed at the back of the shoe, holding the heel and helping maintain the rigid shape of the shoe. For example, slouchy boots that slouch a bit too much after plenty of wear, tend to be missing a good counter.
Dressing— applying any kind of polish, gloss or protective substance to maintain the shine and finishing on a shoe.
Embossed leather— a design imprinted on leather that imitates the appearance of animal skins, patterns, logos or other decorations that are not actually stitched into or a part of the material of the shoe. This is a great animal-friendly alternative for shoppers who love the look of Crocodile Skin.
Finish— any application that produces the final appearance of the outer material of the shoe that is visible while the shoe is worn. A shoe can have a glossy finish, like that found on patent leather, or a buffed finish to give a shoe a slightly worn, antique appearance.
Grain— this is the surface leather— the only material visible when the shoe is on— and is specific to the animal from which the leather comes from.
Hidden Gore— a band of elastic at the front of the shoe that is hidden by the tongue but provides extra flexibility and stretch when your toes press up against it. This is often found in athletic shoes and heeled shoes in which the arch causes more pressure on the toes.
Kiltie— often found on moccasins, a kiltie is a fringed flap over the front, top of the shoe, just before the toes. This fringed area normally has one or more small tassels above it.
Last— often put in shoes to maintain their shape during storage, lasts are made of wood, metal or plastic and create the basic shape of a foot. However, since our feet do not press against the insides of a shoe the way a last must in order to hold up the shoe’s structure, a last should usually be slightly larger than the foot.
Lasting— either for shoe making purposes or simply for altering an already finished and purchased shoe, lasting is the process of pushing and pulling a last inside of a shoe to adjust the shape or size in specific areas.
Monk Strap— usually found on blucher style shoes, a monk strap comes across the top of the shoe and buckles on the side, rather than in the center.
Motion Control— This feature is mostly found in athletic shoes. A Motion Control shoe hugs the foot securely in place, making the foot nearly one with the shoe, in order to control and limit the rolling motion of the foot while running and minimize impact on the foot.
Orthotic— this is an orthopedic insole designed to provide slightly more cushioning and support to the bottom of the foot. Orthotics may already be built into a shoe, or separates can be purchased to insert yourself. Orthotics usually have a somewhat malleable, jelly feel that molds to your foot.
Perforation— this particular style device looks like someone took a hole puncher to your shoes. Perforation is small holes that have been cut or punched out of the sides or trim of a shoe to create a design or simply for ventilation.
Pinking— a saw-toothed stitching at the trim of a shoe, about where the toes begin, for decorative purposes.
Piping— found on the inside of the shoe, this is a piece of leather that follows the seam for decoration. The piping will usually zigzag, create floral shapes, but it won’t be a straight line.
Polyurethane— often found in rain boots or at the bottom of running shoes, Polyurethane is a material often used as an alternative to leather. Polyurethane is flexible like rubber, but durable like leather.
RadianTex— this is a cushioned material that can be part of the insole of a shoe to keep the foot warm. A radiantex insole reflects the warmth of the shoe wearer back into the foot and also acts as a barrier between the foot and vapors created in the shoe to keep the foot dry.
Scotch Grain— think the opposite of a shiny and smooth patent leather shoe. A Scotch Grain shoe has embossed leather that looks like tiny pebbles. This texture gives the shoe a heavier, thicker appearance.
Shearling— when the top of an UGG is folded over, you will see the Shearling. Shearling is lambskin or sheepskin that still has the thick, soft wool attached to it for warmth. Shearling is often used in the lining of boots meant for cold climates.
Silicone— before it was used in plastic surgery, this polymeric material was used to waterproof shoes.
Sipes— found on the bottom of most tires, this is a razor patter, cut into the bottom, outsole of a shoe to scatter water and prevent slipping. The bottoms of snow boots and rain boots often have Sipes.
Smooth Leather— as opposed to Scotch Grain or any sort of embossed leather, smooth leather has a clean, smooth appearance free of any pattern or noticeable grain. Snake skin leather, for example, would not be smooth leather because of its inherent pattern.
Tap— this is an attached piece of leather or metal partial over the sole of the shoe. Creating the sound that we hear from tap shoes, this part of a shoe is appropriately named.
Tassel— not just for couch covers and pillows. A tassel is a knotted rope ornament usually found on the vamp of a shoe. You will often see tassels on moccasins or loafers.
Tongue— this is an additional piece of leather or other material attached at the center of the shoe, under the vamp and leading up to the top of the shoe. Laces tie over the tongue of a shoe.
Tread— the design of a shoe’s outersole. You will see the marking that the tread of a shoe leaves in sand or in dirt. This pattern is the tread.
Vibram— this is a type of non-slip rubber outersole often found on hiking boots for its durability.
Width— the width of a shoe is a measurement taken from the ball of the Last of that shoe. Widths are titled with letters like AAA, AA, A, B, C and each letter represents an added one-sixths of an inch.
Wing Tip— A tip is the upper part of the shoe that covers the toes. A Wing Tip has a seem over the upper part of the toes shaped like wings.
Basic of Boots
Boot— this style of shoe extends to at least the height of the ankle bone, and may reach as high as the thigh. There are ankle boots, calf-high boots, knee-high boots, and above-the-knee boots.
Bootie— not quite a boot, but affectionately named as its smaller sibling, the bootie rises to just below the ankle bone.
Chukka Boot— rising to just below the ankle, but still higher than a regular sneaker (think High Tops), a Chukka Boot laces up and always features a round toe.
Circumference— usually in reference to boots, the circumference is the measurement of the shaft taken at the highest part of the boot.
Jodhpur Boots— Used mostly for equestrian purposes, these boots raise no higher than just above the ankles to maximize utility of the legs. Normally made of water resistant leather, these boots can either lace up or have twin Gores on either side that are elasticized to be easily slipped on.
Riding Boot— while this was originally a shoe designed for equestrian activities, a Riding Boot can also be worn off the horse. A Riding Boot usually raises to knee height, has a low heel, round toe and goring for comfort and support.
Shaft Height— this measurement refers to boots. The Shaft Height is taken from the center of the upper arch of the boot (that lies across the top of the foot) to the top of the shaft of the boot or, the rim, where your foot enters the boot.
Wellington Rainboot— this is a rubber rain boot that can be pulled on and has no seems or trim in order to keep out water.
Shoes With A Purpose
Approach Shoe— with a grip-sole, this athletic shoe is named after its function of aiding rock climbers on the loose gravel or loose rock path approaching the rock-climb area, as well as aiding them in leaving it.
Athleisure Shoe— while inspired by athletic shoes, athleisure shoes are comfortable enough for a long day of walking in an urban area and for a casual environment, but they are not recommended for sports as they tend to have less supportive arches and flatter soles.
Athletic Shoe— shoes designed for the performance of a specific sport like baseball, basketball, hiking, or golf.
Riding Boot— while this was originally a shoe designed for equestrian activities, a Riding Boot can also be worn off the horse. A Riding Boot usually raises to knee height, has a low heel, round toe and goring for comfort and support.
Slipper— meant for indoor use, most slippers are made of soft, warm and highly flexible material. Most slippers do not have the water proof bottom that outdoor shoes have. A slipper is usually flat and can be slipped on without an securing devices.
Sneakers— while they get their name from the wearers ability to step in these shoes without making a sound, sneakers are usually worn in loud arenas like soccer fields, basketball courts, and tennis courts. Most athletic shoes are considered a sneaker. The body of a sneaker is usually made from canvas as the sole is rubber, often with Sipes to prevent slipping on a muddy field or rocky court.
Wellington Rainboot— this is a rubber rain boot that can be pulled on and has no seems or trim in order to keep out water.
Foreign Footwear
Alpargata— This Spanish style shoe has a rope sole. The shoe may be open or closed toe, and slips on, generally covering the majority of the top of the foot with a soft fabric.
Balmoral Shoe— originally appearing in Ireland and Scotland, the Balmoral shoe is usually leather and features a V-shaped, lace panel across the top of the shoe. The tightness of the shoe can be altered by adjusting this laced panel, but the panel can also be purely decorative.
Clog— A shoe with an open back and a closed toe that is supported by a platform style sole is a Clog. While this word usually evokes the image of the Scandinavian wooden shoe, the clog can also be made of rubber, leather or various other materials.
Espadrille— this shoe takes its woven rope sole from the Spanish Alpargata shoe, but elevates it into a wedge heel. Whether the shoe is a slip on, sling back, or even a thong sandal, as long as it has that woven rope wedged heel, it is an espadrille.
Huarache— originated in the heat of Mexico and Central America, this sandal like shoe generally has a flat bottom and women or crisscrossing pieces of fabric over the top of the foot. This woven upper can also be found on wedges.
International Sizing Chart
| US |
EU |
UK |
Australia |
Inches |
Centimeters |
| 5 |
35 |
3 |
5 |
8 5/8 |
21.9 |
| 5.5 |
35.5 |
3.5 |
5 1/2 |
8 3/4 |
22.2 |
| 6 |
36 |
4 |
6 |
9 |
22.9 |
| 6.5 |
36.5 |
4.5 |
6 1/2 |
9 1/8 |
23.2 |
| 7 |
37 |
5 |
7 |
9 1/4 |
23.5 |
| 7.5 |
37.5 |
5.5 |
7 1/2 |
9 1/2 |
24.1 |
| 8 |
38 |
6 |
8 |
9 5/8 |
24.4 |
| 8.5 |
38.5 |
6.5 |
8 1/2 |
9 3/4 |
24.8 |
| 9 |
39 |
7 |
9 |
10 |
25.4 |
| 9.5 |
39.5 |
7.5 |
9 1/2 |
10 1/8 |
25.7 |
| 10 |
40 |
8 |
10 |
10 1/4 |
26 |
| 10.5 |
41 |
8.5 |
10 1/2 |
10 1/2 |
26.7 |
| 11 |
42 |
9 |
11 |
10 5/8 |
27 |
| 12 |
43 |
9.5 |
12 |
11 |
27.9 |